Guatemala

The original homeland to the colourful Mesoamerican civilisation and the Maya peoples, surrounded by the deepest lake and the tallest volcano in Central America.

Guatemala has been on my bucket list for a while, and I hadn’t quite been able to fit it into my itinerary/budget when I was last travelling around Central America. This year, my younger sister was following in my footsteps and taking a couple of months out herself to explore Central America, and so when I heard she was visiting Guatemala, I was keen to tag along.

I visited at the end of June 2023, just at the start of the rainy season. For about half of my time there it rained heavily in the afternoon, usually from around 2pm to 6pm. This meant jet-lag was my friend, and we’d start our mornings early, fitting in our activities before the afternoon rain swept in. By evening it would have dried off, and we’d make our way out for dinner or evening activities.

I spent about 10 days in Guatemala which is a very tight schedule and meant I spent a lot of time travelling. I think 2-3 weeks would have been better in order to visit the very north Mayan ruins in Tikal, visit the Caribbean coast and Rio Dulce, and surf some waves on the west coast in El Pardeon.

Guatemala travel itinerary

Guatemala City XelaLake Atitlan Antigua Semuc Champey Guatemala City

Guatemala City: Arrived into La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City and only spent the night here before heading off to Xela the next morning. There are no public transport options that serve the airport. Uber is very affordable, otherwise taxis and pre-booked shuttles organised through your accommodation are other options. WiFi outside the main airport in the arrivals gate is not open-access, and you will need to get the password from the tourist desk. Therefore, plan/book your transport before leaving the baggage claim area because after that you may struggle to get any data.

Quetzaltenango (Xela): Took a 3h bus from Guatemala City to Xela. There are multiple public bus companies that run routes between Guatemala City and Xela, I took XELABus, £10. It is quite a windy route, and at higher altitude, so a lot cooler in temperature and cloudier.

Lake Atitlan: To get direct transport from Xela to Panajachel, Lake Atilan, I booked a shuttle through the hostel I was staying at, Kasa Kiwi. The shuttle cost £15 and took about 2 hours to reach Panajachel, the main town on the lake. From Panajachel we took a taxi boat to Santa Cruz La Laguna £1.50, the town we were staying.

Antigua: I booked a shuttle transfer to get from Panajachel, Lake Atilan to Antigua that went via Chichicastenango for £30 as I wanted to visit Chichi market. Booking a shuttle transfer/tour was the most direct way of doing this, although it is possible to this via public transport but involves multiple bus changes.

Semuc Champey: There is no direct public transport between Antigua and Semuc Champey, so I once again had to rely on shuttle services organised by my hostel, £27. This is a long journey, around 8-10 hours, and being a shuttle service we were picking up people from multiple different hostels around Antigua and Guatemala City. As we’ll find out later, taking public transport to Semuc Champey is actually much quicker and comfier where possible. Shuttles and public buses (collectivos) drop you off at the same stop in Lanquin, and hostels will organise (mostly free) services from the stop to their hostel.

Guatemala City: To save money, I took public transport buses from Semuc Champey back to Guatemala City. First a collectivo from the general bus stop opposite to Exon gas station in Lanquin to Coban which takes about 1h 40mins, £3. Then from Coban you can take a public bus back to Guatemala City with Monja Blanca. Opt for the ‘Especial’ service for fewer stops (£12.50). This took about 5 hours with a 25 min rest break.

This article by Lonely Planet should provide some more inspiration on places to visit in Guatemala.

Cobbled streets leading to colonial arch in Antigua

How to travel around Guatemala

Travel around Guatemala is not straight-forward. Much of the ‘public transport’ systems are private transport companies or chicken buses. As a result, centralised bus terminals aren’t commonplace, and so travel is not quite as simple as turning up to a city’s bus station and jumping on a bus. Instead, it is more likely that you will need to have planned or researched beforehand to know which bus company you want to go with, and where their bus terminals can be found. There is very little information online to help with this, and as such, most tourists travel around Guatemala using private or shared shuttle transfers. GuateGo is a website where you can search shuttles, public transport, and private transfers. There are still many companies that are not on GuateGo, so I recommend shopping around if you’re looking for a good price, but it’s a good start.

Travelling round Guatemala using shuttle transfers

By far the easiest and more convenient way to travel around. The use of transport shuttles is well established in Guatemalan tourism, and I found people were often surprised when I declined shuttle transportation. All accommodation in Guatemala will have a shuttle company contact which you can book transport through. Alternatively, there are loads of websites online if you want to search for a better price or time. Even restaurants, cafes or shops in particularly touristy areas (such as Lake Atitlan) will advertise transport services. So finding a shuttle won’t be hard to do.

Shuttles are acceptably priced, especially when you convert to your home currency. Compared to what you can pay to take a public bus, shuttles are priced a lot more, but sometimes when you take into account transfers, logistics and timings, shuttles work out to be quite cost-effective.

Typically, you will be travelling in a car or minivan if you book a shuttle. They don’t often have much space for luggage so you will be sat with your luggage around / on you. In this way, shuttles can actually be quite uncomfortable as they are often packed to capacity, to make it more efficient for the travel company, with not much space for luggage, and don’t necessarily have comfortable seats / air conditioning / legroom.

These shuttles are technically more direct, as they pick you up and drop you off door-to-door. But from my experience, they are often not much faster than public buses as they have to make so many stops at everyone’s different accommodations, and will often also incorporate delivering packages and other errands into their journeys too.

Travelling round Guatemala using public transport

Using public transport, not including chicken buses, requires a bit more research. Official online information isn’t great, and so you often have to rely on word of mouth through reviews and online blogs. If in doubt, ask your accommodation - and be mindful that they may want to sell you their transportation services, I had one hostel that wouldn’t give me information on public transport and recommended I book their tour instead.

Within towns and cities, collectivos and rickshaws are the most common way to get around, although most places are pretty walkable. Within Guatemala City there are city buses and underground trains you can take, and Uber is very affordable too, which is what I ended up using. Of course, you can always hail a taxi.

Collectivos are small minivans/minibuses that travel between towns. You can use them to travel within towns too. Because collectivos are owned by individuals as their own business, they will drive around main areas looking for passengers to fill up their seats before heading off to their next destination. You will often see them driving through towns calling out their destinations. If you are in need of a ride somewhere, feel free to hail one down and tell them your destination, they will be able to tell you if they are headed there or not. Alternatively, try to find where the main areas where the collectivos stop to pick-up passengers, as this is the closest you’ll get to a ‘bus terminal’. There will usually be someone based there, coordinating collectivos and recruiting passengers, who you can ask for information if you don’t know which collectivo to get. On my map above, I’ve pinpointed some of the main collectivo ‘bus stops’ for different towns I visited to help you.

To make larger trips between cities, there are some public bus companies that run routes, mainly between Guatemala City and other destinations. Unfortunately, there are not many public bus routes between the other tourist destinations, which is why many rely on shuttles. These larger public buses are like coaches, with under cabin luggage storage, comfortable and reclining seats, in coach entertainment (sometimes with free WiFi), and a toilet on board. From my experience, all these coach companies were really comfortable and all their facilities were functioning. On both occasions where I took coach transport it was quicker / as quick as the shuttle travel times. The added benefit here being that they were cheaper and more comfortable because they are made for long-distance journeys. On the right I’ve listed the public transport bus/coach companies I am aware of.

Travelling round Guatemala using chicken buses

Many people online don’t recommend chicken buses, saying that they are dangerous and uncomfortable - I’d beg to question how many of these blogs are speaking from first-hand experience... I cannot speak for the chicken buses in Guatemala as I did not take them here, but from my previous experience in other Central American countries, chicken buses were totally fine and quite a fun experience. They won’t have air conditioning, instead you rely on open windows. Bags are either strapped to the roof of the bus, or sat on your lap (this is the same for some private and shared shuttles as above). Buses can be crowded and a little chaotic with people coming and going (same as a collectivo) so keep your valuables close and accounted for. I wouldn’t necessarily deter anyone from taking a chicken bus, I think they are good fun. But given how little information is online about chicken bus transport, it may be easier to plan transport using shuttles of public buses.

Guatemala public buses

Guatemala chicken buses

  • Guatemala City: 40 Calle, Zona 8 bus stop

  • Quetzaltenango: Terminal Minerva

  • Panajachel: Rubeli bus stop

What to eat in Guatemala

  • Tortillas are a staple here, frequently served with every meal

  • Tostadas (toasted or deep-fried tortillas topped with salsa)

  • Chirmol (locally made salsa)

  • Chicharrones (fried pork rinds / crackling)

  • Tamales

  • Caldo de pollo / res (chicken / beef broth)

  • Jocon (stewed chicken in green sauce)

  • Pepian (meat and vegetable stew)

  • Kak’ik (turkey soup in red broth)

  • Hilachas (shredded beef stew)

  • Pupusas (stuffed tortillas)

  • Empanadas

  • Rellenitos (plantain stuffed with black beans)

  • Horchata (cinnamon spiced rice drink)

  • Fried chicken

  • Jamaica tea (hibiscus sweet tea)

Caldo de pollo.

And everything else

Money: The currency in Guatemala is Quetzales. Cash is often the preferred and required method of payment, particularly for more remote areas. Card is accepted in larger cities and establishments, although there is often a small transaction fee. Be mindful of this, and plan accordingly. Many hostels and transport services will require cash payments which therefore requires you to withdraw money often.

Language: Spanish is the official language of Guatemala, but almost half of the population speak traditional Mayan languages, and a smaller population speak other Indigenous languages. Due to the well established tourism in Guatemala, English is well understood in places like Antigua, Semuc Champey and Lake Atitlan, particularly for those who work in tourism, such as accommodation workers, tours guides etc. Most locals will not necessarily speak fluent English and I would encourage you to learn some basic Spanish, or download a translator app.

Safety: There is a lot of talk about Guatemala being unsafe, although these rumours rarely pinpoint which areas in Guatemala being referred to. I personally had no experiences or feelings of unsafety, even at night. Most of the areas you will visit are heavy tourist areas and so are genuinely quite safe. In Guatemala City, there are often security personnel stationed outside buildings and patrolling the streets. Avoid any areas that you have been explicitly told to avoid, but again, I wasn’t told of any unsafe areas and found Guatemala City to be a vibrant and fun city. As with any busy or touristy area, be aware of pick-pockets and people potentially trying to scam you.

Need to knows

50:50 card to cash economy. So make sure you have plenty of cash, or access to cash.

Special Recommendations

Food: Mango con chili y limon

Attractions: Lake Atitilan

Accommodation: La Iguana Perdida

R’s take 

A well-developed tourist economy, I found it quite hard to travel like a budget backpacker. This meant more boutique hostels (fewer communal kitchens) and more hostel transfers (fewer crazy transport stories) and $$$.