Panama

Exceeding expectations, Panama has the cosmopolitan city, the remote paradise beaches, and the misty mountain hikes. It may not be the most talked about country in Central America, but it’s definitely not one to be missed.

At the end of my PhD I decided that instead of using my last 3 months of student payments writing up my thesis (which PhD students are encouraged to do) I would instead take that money and travel through Central America. In my mind you could write a thesis wherever you were in the world, and after 3 years of soul-destroying academic research I thought it was the least I deserved.

Panama was the first stop on my 3-month itinerary. It was actually a last minute pick, changing my inbound flight from Costa Rica to Panama about a week before I flew. Because of that, I didn’t have many expectations for Panama. To me, it looked kinda boring compared to its Costa Rican sister. Boy was I wrong. Panama actually turned out to be my favourite country out of the 3 I visited (Panama, Costa Rica, Nicaragua). I planned and booked my trip as I went along, changing plans on recommendations and meeting people along the way. There seems to be a fairly standard tourist (gringo) route, and so I often bumped into people I had met at previous hostels before. This was quite good as a solo traveler with little knowledge of the country, but may be a bit off-putting for those trying to take ‘the road less travelled’.

Panama travel itinerary

Panama City → El Valle de Anton → Boquete → Bocas del Toro → San Jose, Costa Rica

Panama City: I flew into Tocumen International Airport and stayed in Panama City for 20 days. You definitely don't need to stay this long, I just wanted to stay settled to focus on some writing at the start of my trip.

El Valle de Anton: Took a bus (more like a minivan) from Panama City main bus station to El Valle de Anton (3h). Stayed in El Valle for about 4 days, which was a good amount of time. Apart from the surrounding hiking paths, there wasn't much else to do in this small mountain town.

Boquete: Took a bus from El Valle de Anton to David (via Santiago) and then a bus from David to Boquete (8h). 4 days was enough for me as it was quite cold and rainy up in Boquete. However, it is quite a touristy mountain town and there is plenty to do if you want a longer stay.

Bocas del Toro: Took a bus from Boquete back to David, and then a bus from David to Almirante. At Almirante is where you catch a boat to Isla Colon, Bocas del Toro. I was staying on this main island, but from Isla Colon you can take another boat to the neighbouring islands if you choose to stay on one of them. I stayed here for 4 days, which is enough time to get things done, but it would have been nicer to have more time, especially as the weather can be a little unpredictable and the 'party' nature of the main town means a lot of mornings were written off regrettably.

To Costa Rica: I booked my transport through Caribe Shuttle which organised the water taxi from Bocas to Almirante, and the transport Almirante across the Costa Rican border and onward to San Jose, with lunch included. This cost $80, and whilst much more expensive than me organising the transport myself it much less stressful, more convenient and guaranteed me in San Jose the same day, with lunch and a 4h break in Puerto Viejo included. You can find out more about this journey on my Bocas del Toro page.

How to travel around Panama

Within Panama City Uber is probably the easiest way to get around. It's cheap - often almost as cheap as public transport. If you don’t use Uber then public transport is also pretty easy. Buy a metro card from a metro station (you cannot buy them at bus stops), top-up with money, and then just tap away. You pay per journey and they can be used on subways/metro and buses. If you use apps like CityMapper or Google Maps, then they will give you details about how best to plan your route, with live departure and travel times. Taxis are also possible to use, although a bit more expensive. In Central America it is common for the driver to pick up multiple passengers and make drops at multiple destinations. Make sure to confirm your price before getting into the cab. I personally preferred taking Ubers because of its ease of use, and the additional safety features.

Outside of Panama City, you will have to rely on buses and taxis. All buses (inter- and intracity) should have a sign on the front windscreen with their final destination. For local buses, they will sometimes also display their route and stops, but this isn’t always a given. In these cases, it will be a mix of asking around for bus information, and checking with the driver before embarking. There are small bus signs that signal a bus stop, but it's not always obvious. For boat taxis (when you're visiting the islands) it's a similar thing as a taxi. Hail a boat down from a pier or water edge, and be prepared to share the boat with other riders going to different destinations. If you can't see a boat taxi on the horizon, you can always ask an establishment to call you one, as you would a land taxi. And of course, when taking public transport, always have cash on you.

Wooden pier extending out into the sea in Bocas del Toro.

What to eat in Panama

Raspados (shaved ice topped with condensed milk and syrup).
Chicharon (pork rinds)
Arroz con pollo
Hojaldre (fried dough, usually eaten with breakfast)
Tamales
Ropa Vieja (shredded beef stew)
Chicheme (drink made from corn, milk, and spices) - it sounds weird, but it's like masala chai vibes
Patacones (double fried plantain) - I LOVE, especially with stew
Ceviche
Carimanola (deep-fried stuffed yucca balls)
Guacho (soupy rice dish)
Sancocho (chicken broth often served with a side of rice) - Having been brought up on Asian food, a broth soup with rice was right up my street
Empanadas - the perfect packed lunch item
Yuca frita (yucca fries)

Chicharron starter from El Trapiche restaurant in Panama City.

Chicharon from El Trapiche.

Hojaldre beef sandwich from El Trapiche restaurant in Panama City.

Ropa vieja hojaldre sandwich from El Trapiche.

And everything else

Money: Cash points are readily available all over the country. You may have some limitations on the islands. In Panama City and Boquete you can pay card in most places, smaller local businesses and markets will require cash. For other places across Panama card will be accepted in more established businesses. I'd advise to always have some cash on you (maybe $50), just in case. In Panama you can pay with American USD or Panamanian Balboa. The currencies are of equal value, so totally fine to interchange.

Language: Spanish is the official language of Panama. A lot of people will be able to speak English, especially in tourist areas and in Panama City.

Safety: Locals didn’t really pay me much attention, so I didn't have any problems with unwanted attention, or feelings of intimidation. I only had a couple experiences of feeling uncomfortable or unsafe in my surroundings. One was on a bus where an old man would not stop looking at me and even came to sit closer to me. I ignored him, and all the other local men on the bus were condemning him, but I was a little afraid he would follow me off the bus - he didn’t. Another time I felt unsafe is understandably whilst walking through some of the quieter and more derelict areas in the late evening. Immediately outside the patrolled confines of Casco Viejo there are less developed streets (as mentioned above). Therefore, you can go from the pristine, manicured police patrolled streets of Casco Viejo, take a turn and end up on a completely contrasting street.