Cappadocia
(Göreme)
Deep scoring valleys, fairy chimneys, secret cave churches, and hot air balloon sunrises. A truly magical landscape.
Cappadocia is a region in Türkiye known for its ‘fairy chimney’ rock formations and cave dwellings. It includes the popular destinations Göreme National Park, Kaymakli Underground City, and Derinkuyu Underground City. There are a couple of places in Cappadocia that you can choose to stay, although most will stay in or around Göreme. This is where I chose to stay, and the information below reflects transport and activities you can do from Göreme.
You could also choose to stay in Uçhisar, Çavuşin, Ürgüp or Ortahisar.
Göreme was my favourite place I visited in Türkiye, mainly because I love the outdoors, and Göreme was all about hikes for me. I get a real sense of strength, achievement and self-love from solo hikes, so this was an amazing few days. The majority of this page will cover the hikes that you can access by foot from Göreme.
How to get to Göreme
Plane: Many people choose to fly to Cappadocia, given its central location, which is quite far from many of the main cities along the coast. If you choose to fly, you will most likely fly to Nevsehir Airport. From here you need to make your way to Göreme, either by taxi, private transfer, or shuttle bus. Nevsehir Airport is about 40mins away from Göreme. I’ve heard there is a shuttle bus between the airport and Göreme, but haven’t seen any information on this myself, this may be because I visited during the off-peak season. Your best bet will most likely be to find a transfer company online.
Public transport: There are many bus companies and bus routes that travel through Göreme, including from Istanbul, Denizli, Izmir, Antalya, Ankara etc. You can find more information about how to plan and book bus trips on my Türkiye Country Guide.
Car: You can drive to Göreme quite easily. Most of the roads are asphalt and in good condition, but depending on how off-road you want to go, it may be better to rent a 4x4. The region is very dusty and graveley so just be aware of that.
Getting around Goreme: Göreme is a small town and you can very easily travel around on foot. Some people choose to rent cars to get around the surrounding areas which may be useful if there are particular areas you want to visit as many nearby attractions are not easily accessible by public transport. Taxis are readily available from the town, but make sure you take down a number so you can call a car to pick you up from your destination. The taxi rank near the bus station lists prices for popular destinations. Public transport via dolmus or coach can take you to neighbouring towns and cities. They run more frequently during the summer tourist season and may not be a reliable form of transport during the off-peak months.
I made my way around Göreme by foot and found this totally fine. After 3-4 days though, I had done most of what I could in the vicinity and would have needed to rent a car or book a tour to visit some of the other attractions.
Göreme
Goreme is a small tourist town. It’s central area, mainly catered for tourism, is made up of many cave accommodations and restaurants. If you’re looking to spend a day milling about and relaxing in town you’d be able to do that quite easily with the many coffee shops, dessert cafes, rooftop terraces, souvenir shops and boutiques. I spent a day here enjoying the many outdoor terraces while catching up on admin and found it quite relaxing as most people are off on day trips during the day leaving the town quiet.
Being a tourist town, restaurant dishes weren’t cheap, and those on the lower price end tended to either be Western food or poor quality (or both). Decently stocked supermarkets were hard to come by, and instead I mostly relied on the odd fresh produce at corner stores that seemed to prioritise booze and snacks. That being said, if you are less fussed about visiting on a budget, there are some really great food options for tasty and authenic Turkish food often with a great view.
There are plenty of accommodation options to suit your preferences or budget. I stayed at Homestay Cave Hostel which was very clean and well equipped with lockable lockers, a communal kitchen, rooftop terrace, bathrobes and shampoo. They also run a restaurant out front with fair priced food.
You’ll see many hostels and travel agents advertising tours like ‘The Green Tour’ or ‘The Red Tour’. I’m a big advocate for doing things yourself without tours as it allows you more time and freedom to do the things you want (for way less money) and I would encourage you to do so as many of the stops made on these tours can be achieved by yourself. However, if you are short on time, not big on logistics, or want to meet/be with other people then these tours are a great option. You’ll be able to find versions of these tours online to prebook, but many accommodations will be able to help you book these tours once you arrive in Goreme.
Homestay Cave Hostel hostel bed
Love Garden Cafe overlooking Love ValleyThings to do in Göreme, Cappadocia:
Hiking! From Göreme, you can reach several trails by foot / short taxi / local dolomus. These include Pigeon Valley, Love Valley, Rose Valley, Red Valley, Meskendir Valley, Sword Valley, Zemi Valley, and Rocket Valley. More information can be found on their respective hiking guides.
Watch the sunrise from a different viewpoint on a hot air balloon ride. Arguably one of the better well-known activities for Cappadocia. Hot air balloon rides need to be booked a day in advance and typically cost around £200 for a 1h ride (although the prices fluctuate with the season).
Don’t want to splash the cash, watch the hot air balloon sunrise instead. Another popular activity is to watch the hot air balloons rise rather than ride them themselves. Below I’ve listed my top places to watch this.
Experiences the valleys at a faster pace on the back of ATVs or jeeps.
Learn about the Byzantine settlers who originally called this area home at the open-air museum. There are two open-air museums in the region, the Göreme Open-Air Museum and the Zelve Open-Air Museum. The one in Göreme is more popular, in part due to its closer location, but the Zelve Museum has better reviews and lower entrance fees.
Climb Uçhisar castle, the highest point in Cappadocia, and get panoramic views over Göreme. Uçhisar is a neighbouring town to Göreme and can be reached by foot at the end of the Pigeon Valley or Zemi Valley trail. Alternatively, buses regularly make trips between the two towns on their to/from Nevsehir.
Try manti, a Turkish dumpling dish said to have originated from the Cappadocia region. Manti are small lamb-stuffed dumplings served with tomato and yoghurt sauce.
Visit the neighbouring towns of Çavusin and Ortahisar to visit their castles, churches and trails. Taking a taxi or car will be an easier and more reliable option to visit these towns from Göreme.
Just to note, there are horseback and camel rides available to explore the valley. I’m personally not a big supporter of animal tourism like this, but if you do choose to do these activities please check reviews and try to visit the ranches beforehand to check the welfare of the animals.
Things to do in Cappadocia (outside Göreme):
More hiking! These valleys are a little further afield from Göreme and will likely require a car, a longer taxi ride, or booking with a tour company. These include Gomeda Valley, Devrent Valley (Imagination Valley), Soganli Valley, Çat Valley and Ihlara Valley
Visit the deep and complex underground cities of Derinkuyu and Kaymakli, created and used for protection during periods of war and persecution. Derinkuyu is the larger of the complexes, but Kaymakli is older.
Take a trip to the magical (sometimes) pink lake, Tuz Lake. This salt lake is the second-largest lake in Turkiye and is seemingly located in the middle of a desert. The pink colour is a result of the algae in the water and is supposed to be most vibrant during the Summer months.
A quick note about hiking:
Göreme is made up of many valleys. You will be hiking through them or along the ridges, either way you will be very exposed for the majority of the trails. It is therefore important that you are well prepared for the weather.
There are also minimal facilities available, particularly if you travel outside of peak tourist season. Access to water, food, facilities or support is heavily reliant on locals opening up their homes or setting up stalls. It is therefore not a guarantee that a cafe marked on the map will be stocked or open.
Finally, routes are not always well marked and paths are not always clear. As you are walking through valley floors, paths that are there in the Summer may become rivers in the Spring. Make sure you have a form of navigation available and back-up navigation if relying on your phone.
See my blog post about how I prepare for solo hikes for more general information.
Cappadocia hiking packing list:
Water (plenty!) I use a water bottle with a LifeStraw so that I can filter water should I come across a stream or water tap. However, Göreme is pretty dry, so I wouldn’t rely on natural water sources.
Sun protection - definitely a sun hat. Suncream. Lip balm. Sunglasses. Shawl/cover for shoulders.
Navigation - I recommend Maps.Me which is a free offline navigation map that shows trail paths (unlike Google Maps). There are other paid options which may be better like AllTrails.
Snacks - there are nearly no food options available, even when cafes and stalls are open they mostly sell drinks.
Portable charger
Basic first aid
Torch - if hiking early morning or in the evening
Cash - in case you need to take public transport or taxi. They will not accept card.
Göreme Sunrise Spots
(best spots to watch the hot air balloons)
For the best sunrise view you want to be facing East, or over Rose Valley, as this is where the sun rises. For the hot air balloons, you want to be in or near the Göreme valley where the balloons take off. This is North and East of town. The balloons mostly fly above the valley but some pilots are very good with their steering and bring them very close to the valley floor or hotel rooftops which can be particularly impressive. All these spots are marked on my map in the Turkiye Country Guide.
Sunrise Point: This is the most popular spot (as you can see from my picture). This is probably due to it being marked on maps and directly accessible along a paved road from town by foot or driving (walk towards Artemis Cave Suites and you’ll find it). During busy periods, a gate comes down at the entrance from town and an entrance fee is charged. It’s a small fee, and I believe they take card payments too. If, like me, you’d rather avoid paying, you can reach this spot from the back of town by walking just out of Göreme town, along the main road towards the Open Air Museum. Take the first right near a horse ranch and the path towards Zemi Valley and then continue around the back of Sunrise Point following signs for a sunrise/sunset spot. It’s a steep incline up a smooth rock so may require some scrambling. If you’re not comfortable with this, take the road from town and pay the fee. The view from here is good and overlooks the sun rising over the horizon and the balloon lifting from the valley floor. However, it is very busy and so not my preferred spot.
The valley area between the roads Muze Cd. and Mezarlik Sk. (“Balloons view” on Google Maps). This is the valley where many of the balloons rise from. It’s a flat walk from town, just on the outskirts of Göreme. Because you are also on the valley floor you get 360-panormaic views of the balloons all around you. Hot air balloon pilots will also fly balloons quite close to the ground and between rock formations here so it’s also a good spot if you are trying to catch a glimpse of friends riding in the balloons. However, in my opinion, being on the valley floor isn’t quite as magical. It’s quite loud with all the balloons firing off and again can get quite busy with tourists and workers running around the valley floor.
Al Nazar Church is a little further out from the two spots above but will be much quieter. It’s located on a hill and faces north, so overlooks the valley but won’t get as good a view of the sun rising over the horizon. There are a couple of balloon companies that launch near this spot so you may get lucky and close to those, but the majority of balloons will be far ahead of you. If you find yourself at this part of town and wanting to escape the crowds, this could be a good spot.
The dirt road that leads between Göreme and Love Valley trail head, (“ATAY PANORAMA” on Google Maps). This is my favourite spot and my high recommendation. A large part of why I liked this spot so much was its secluded and quiet feel, which I know is an uphill battle to keep in this digital era. However, I try not to gatekeep. I shared this spot with 4 other people and there was loads of space. I stumbled across this spot when walking back to Göreme from Love Valley and thought it looked like a good spot. It overlooks Rose Valley and the valley floor around Göreme where the majority of balloons fly from. It also faces directly east, so you have clear views of the horizon and the sunrise. Before the sun is up you can see the hot air balloons inflate and glow on the valley floor before they start to lift and fill the sky. A good few of the balloons travel into Love Valley (which is behind this spot) or land on the hilltops where I was stood so you can get pretty close to some of the balloons. It took me around 10-15 minutes from my hostel, so not all that far at all.
View from Atay PanoramaSunrise PointBalloons viewAtay PanoramaGöreme Sunset Spots
Depending on what you want views of, you either want to face West to watch the sun dip past the horizon, or if you face East you can watch the valley glow golden from the setting sun. This is particularly nice if looking over Rose Valley. Many of these spots are the same as sunrise, as above.
Sunrise Point: This is a popular spot due to its close and accessible location from town. As previously mentioned, during sunrise an entrance fee is charged at the entrance from town. If you want to avoid paying the fee you can access this spot from just outside town. Details are above. You can drive or walk up to this spot and parking is available. During the day and evening there are a couple of stalls open selling snacks, drinks, alcohol and gifts. It gets pretty vibey up with lots of people coming up to hang out and music playing, but there is also enough space to be able to find a quiet spot to yourself if you prefer.
Red Valley: This is another popular spot, although not located in Goreme. You will either have to reach here as part of a hike, in which case make sure to bring torches with you to hike back safely, or you will need to drive / use a taxi (15 minute drive). The sun sets over Red Valley and the golden light gives the valley an amazing hue. There are also a couple of cafes and stalls selling snacks, drinks, alcohol and souvenirs. Again, this can get pretty vibey in the evenings, and again, you have the whole valley at your disposal if you want to find a quieter spot. During busier tourist periods it is likely that there will be taxis waiting around Red Valley to take you back to Göreme, but make sure you take a number with you just in case you need to call one.
The dirt road that leads between Göreme and Love Valley trail head, (“ATAY PANORAMA” on Google Maps). This spot overlooks Rose Valley and while you cannot see the sunset itself, the golden glow lights up Rose Valley making it look extra pink which is a nice touch.
View from Sunrise PointView from Atay PanoramaNeed to knows
A lot of the more popular view points in Göreme now charge a fee. Make sure you have some cash on you, or get out your trail map and hike to the spot instead.
Special Recommendations
Food: Pal’s Restaurant
Attractions: Hot air balloon sunrise
Accommodation: Homestay Cave Hostel
R’s take
The whole town of Göreme felt very safe, whether I was hiking solo, or walking the streets after dark. Being such a tourist hot-spot there were plenty of people from diverse backgrounds visiting.
Balloon Valley
Sunrise from Atay Panorama
Sunrise Point
Overlooking Rose Valley at sunset
Manti from Pals Restaurant
Sunrise from Atay Panorama
Homestay Cave Hostel dorm bed
Goreme town limits
When to visit Cappadocia
You can visit Cappadocia year-round. Depending on what activities you want to do will determine when you want to visit.
Hiking is best done in the Spring and Autumn when the weather is mild and clear. In the Spring you may get wetter valley floors due to fuller rivers so I’d make sure to pack hiking boots over shoes or sandals. Hiking is still possible in the Summer but beware there are few opportunities for shade or water along trails so prepare accordingly and try to avoid the hottest part of the day.
To see and ride the hot air balloons you will need fair weather, so visiting from the end of Spring through to early Autumn is best (April - November). It is still possible for hot air balloons to lift during the colder months, but much less likely.
If you’re coming just to explore the area; take some tours, drive to different valleys, or visit underground towns, museums, caves, or castles, then any time of the year is possible.
Winter in Cappadocia gets quite cold. January usually hovers around 4°C, and evenings regularly dip below freezing. It can snow in the region, which actually looks pretty beautiful against the warm-coloured rock. Summer’s get hot with temperatures often getting above 30°C. There isn’t much shade in Cappadocia, and being in valleys can really intensify the heat with little breeze. If hot temperatures are not your bag I’d avoid visiting during the peak Summer months.
When to visit Cappadocia hot air balloons / When do hot air balloons fly in Cappadocia?
Technically, hot air balloons can fly year-round. However, they do not fly during rain, storms, strong wind or very poor visibility. Therefore, to be in for the best chance of good weather you will want to visit between April - November. You should also bear in mind that winter will be much colder, especially high up in the balloon. So think about your comfort levels for this.
What airport should I get for Cappadocia? / Where to fly into Cappadocia
If flying into Cappadocia, most people arrive at Nevsehir Kapadokya Airport. From Nevsehir, you can take a taxi or shuttle bus transfer to the town in Cappadocia you are staying in. Shuttle buses are run by private companies which you can book online. This airport is located in a relatively remote area making it a little harder to travel to/from via public transport. If you choose to travel to your accommodation by bus you will need to make your way to Gülsehir Bus Station or Nevsehir Bus Station. From what I can see, you have to take a taxi to each of these bus stations from the airport as there are no public transport options, but if this is wrong let me know! From these bus stations you can book a bus to Göreme, either pre-book online or by it from the station on the day. From Göreme you can catch local dolmus to neighbouring towns during peak tourist season. Off-season these local routes may not be running and a taxi will be better.
Kayseri Erkilet International Airport is the alternative airport you can fly into. It is larger and busier than Nevsehir, and also further away. However, being located in a larger city means that public transport can be easier. You can take a taxi or book a transfer to take you directly to your accommodation. If using public transport, there are regular buses from Kayseri airport to Kayseri Bus Station in the city centre. From Kayseri Bus Station, you can catch a bus to Göreme. This bus can be reserved online or bought from the ticket station on the day. From Göreme you can catch local dolmus to neighbouring towns during peak tourist season. Off-season these local routes may not be running and a taxi will be better.
Where to stay in Cappadocia
Göreme: Most people choose to stay in Göreme and it has more options for accommodation, restaurants, nightlife, and tourist activities. It’s also the best if you don’t have a car as it has good public transport links and trailheads close by. If you’re coming specifically to see the hot air balloons, then stay Göreme. This is where they fly from and you’ll be closest here.
Uçhisar: This town is situated at the highest point in Cappadocia, so has great views over the valleys. It’s less touristy than Göreme so quieter.
Çavusin: Quieter and less touristy than Göreme with good access to hikes and local attractions, including the Zelve Open Air Museum. You can also catch views of the hot air balloons at sunrise, although not as close. Good for those who are looking to stay somewhere a little quieter but still have many of the same benefits as Göreme.
Ürgüp: Situated a little further out from the valleys and other towns, this would be a good place to stay if you are looking for something a little more tranquil.
Ortahisar: Like Çavusin, this town is quieter and less touristy, but still close to some of the main hikes in the area.
How many days do you need to spend in Cappadocia?
I think 4 days is plenty of time to explore the main attractions in the area without rushing things. If you are relying on travelling by foot or public transport you may run out of accessible attractions to visit after 2-3 days. The towns in the area are small but have plenty of nice restaurants, cafes and hotels to chill in and while away the afternoons. If you are short on time you can definitely get away with a 1-night 2-day stay, travelling via overnight buses either side and booking onto tours if you want to maximise the sites you see. Of course, if you’re enjoying the area you can stay much longer.
I really enjoyed being in Cappadocia and would have been happy taking a slow-paced week with a mix of hiking and relaxing. I spent 3 days and 2 nights in the region and relied on walking to different trails and attractions. If I’d stayed longer I would have rented a car or booked onto a tour to see some of the other attractions further away to keep me occupied.
What to wear for Cappadocia / What to pack for Cappadocia
Cappadocia is a vast area of valleys that are generally very exposed. Therefore, whatever time of the year you plan to visit, you need to pack and wear clothes that will protect you from the elements (sun, wind, rain) and are suitable for the season. In Winter it regularly drops below 0°C at night and can snow. Specialist Winter equipment and clothes aren’t necessary unless embarking on particularly technical hikes. Sun protection will be needed year-round.
General packing list: Suncream, plenty of water, navigating system (app / maps), day bag.
Winter packing list: Winter coat, warm hat, scarf, gloves, winter boots / hiking boots with good tread, warm socks, thermal layers, waterproof clothes.
Summer packing list: Suncream, sun hat, sunglasses, walking shoes / sandals, windbreaker or jacket for cooler evenings, mositure-wicking layers, loose long layers to protect you from the sun.
Why does Cappadocia have so many caves?
The geology of the rocks, a result of ancient volcanic eruptions, left soft porous rock that could be easily excavated and carved. Local civilisations began to excavate large areas, building underground cities, cave homes and cave churches. During the Byzantine period, these underground cities became particularly important for Byzantine Christians to hide and shelter from persecution. In peacetime, people moved to live above ground and carved out cave homes and churches. This continues today, with many buildings in Göreme in particular being excavated and built out of the natural rocks.