Boquete

A misty mountain town for cloud forest hikes and warm local coffee

It took most of the day to travel to Boquete and I arrived early evening. After coming from El Valle, I was surprised by how built up and touristy this mountain town was. The streets were full of shops and cafés and restaurants and tour offices, and there were so many people too. As well as the locals and the tourists, there is also a big American expat community in Boquete. Being at a higher altitude, it was colder and almost constantly cloudy. I think the only time I wore short sleeves was when I was hiking.

I was staying at Blastina Beer Hostel, which was further along the road from the bus stop, and unfortunately for me, all up hill. The hostel itself is located overlooking a brewery (hence the beer hostel name), and does great beer and burgers (veg + vegan friendly too). This hostel is mainly one long room with bunks along one side. There is little space for your belongings, so the room gets messy, but people were respectful. At the end of the long room are 3 bathrooms. There were some issues with hot water running out due to everyone showering at the same time, so bare that in mind. Other than that, there was a covered patio that was the outdoor communal area and a kitchen. Again, the area was a little messy and disorganised, but you’ll find everything you need there. Because of this set-up, there isn’t really a reception or staff on site. The owner will meet you when you arrive, so give an arrival time, and he will then give you his number if you need any help. He drops in every day to tidy up, and was often there in the evenings to hang out, sometimes bringing his friends too. He was really friendly, and whilst not always around, he would reply to messages and offered to drive us places such as the supermarket or to trail heads. I actually really enjoyed my stay and was very comfortable. The beds had privacy curtains, which I love because I feel like I can hide away in my own space with those, and there were lockers too (but not big enough to fit a laptop).

Because of the lack of space, and with only one main table to sit around, everyone was very sociable. We had BBQs together, hung out in the evenings, and then planned hikes together. This was perfect as a solo traveller, as Boquete has a couple stories of people getting lost on hikes, so finding people to hike with was really important for me. All the hikes I did in Boquete were with a group of us from the hostel. Some people had cars and were able to drive to trail heads, which saved us having to use taxis. For other hostel options, check here.

Boquete packing list:

Warm layers (and spare clothes, it can take a while for things to dry)
Waterproof jacket
Map, phone, some form of navigation
Hiking shoes or shoes with good grip
Torch or headlamp
Water bottle
Snacks, there aren’t many facilities near trailheads
If you don't feel your clothes are appropriate for the climate you can easily go out and buy some. There are general clothes stores and second-hand outdoor wear.

Metal swing bridge over a river that leads into a forest.

Swing bridge to reach Las Tres Cascadas

Il Pianista hiking trail

The Il Pianista hike is well known for two Dutch girls who went missing whilst on the trail in 2014. Their bodies were never found, and so this mystery really haunted me and was the main reason I was afraid of hiking solo in Boquete. That, coupled with the constant, dark, drizzly and overcast weather. Luckily, through my hostel, I met other solo travelling women, and we agreed to hike together. Later on we eventually joined forces with some other hostel stayers who had a car, spoke good Spanish, and were able to accompany us on some of the more intimidating trails. Il Pianista hike we did with a larger group, about 6 of us. To reach the trail head you have to reach Il Pianista restaurant and on the left of the building is a path. This path takes you through a settlement/village area with local families, dogs, and chickens about. The dogs bark loudly and will follow you around, which can be intimidating. Once you pass this area, you cross some open fields and farmland before making your way into the forest. You gradually ascend into the cloud forest, which has a real spooky feel. There are loads of little creatures living here, including millipedes and forest crabs?! As you get closer to the summit, the sides of the trail begin to become taller than you. You feel truly immersed and engulfed by the forest. It was amazing, and moody, but definitely something I would have spooked to do on my own. We made it to the summ but being in a cloud forest, there was no view. It seemed possible that the trail could continue on along the top, but the path was very muddy, and we didn't try to go any further. I really enjoyed this trail. It seemed that the landscape changed a little every few kilometres, making it an exciting hike. There is incline, but nothing too challenging, although the terrain was not smooth or flat. I was very grateful that we had a big group of us doing this hike because it is a real experience, and I'd highly recommend it - just maybe not alone.

Man hiking through the cloud forest of Il Pianista trail.

Las Tres Cascadas hike

Tres Cascadas was the first trail I hiked, and this was with two other solo travelling women. We took a taxi from the hostel to the trail head. Apparently you can also take a collectivo, but it was a bit hard to find out the relevant information on where they left from and how often they left. Between us, a taxi was very affordable. From the road, you cross a bridge (pictured above) and make your way up what looks like a rocky driveway until you reach a more open garden area. In front of you is a hut where you sign in, pay entrance fees and can get more information about the trail. I've seen online that entrance fees are currently at $10. It seems like a lot, but it is a well maintained and sign-posted hike, the best I had experienced in Boquete and El Valle. The trail has handrails and ropes to help you up and down particularly steep sections, which is particularly helpful when the ground is wet and slippery. There are 3 waterfalls in total to reach, of varying size and force. Had the weather been warmer on my visit, I would have been far more tempted to get in the waterfalls, which is possible for 2 of them. This is a popular trail, and we saw multiple groups of people on this hike. After we had finished the trail, we were able to ask the staff at the entrance hut to call as a taxi to take us back.

You can find more information about Las Tres Cascadas and their facilities available on their website.

Hidden waterfall in the forest on the trail of Las Tres Cascadas.

Sendero la Piedra de Lino hike

This trail is supposedly a short but steep climb. I did this hike with some friends from the hostel, so we were able to drive to the trail head, which is clearly sign posted. The trail path is open and clear and fairly straight forward. Along this path, you will eventually reach some farmland. It wasn't entirely clear if it was private land or not, there was no one around and the building looked pretty abandoned, but I don't want to make assumptions. Past this building, the trail continues into the forest and becomes a steep climb. We attempted to follow the trail, but the wet conditions were not ideal. It had been raining for the past few days and the trail was very muddy and slippery. We ended making up some sort of walking route that we could manage in the surrounding area before returning home.

Girl walking through the mossy trees on the Las Tres Cascadas trail

Things to do in Boquete (that aren’t hiking):

Try some locally grown coffee at the numerous cafes located around town. A lot of the cafes also run, or are affiliated with, coffee tours. You could take a tour to view the coffee and cacao plantations in the Panamanian highlands and learn more about the harvesting.
Purchase artisanal gifts and souvenirs at the local makers markets: Centro Artisanal de Boquete, Riches of Panama and BCP Market.
Overnight hike up Volcan Baru for sunrise. This is probably the most famous hike in Boquete. I opted not to do this hike because I was told it is very cold, and the weather was forecast for clouds or rain during my stay. You need to forecast for clear weather at sunrise to ensure you see something more than clouds at the top. The hike is also mainly along a dirt track road and so not the most scenic on the way down.
Climb on a brilliant rock face called Los Ladrillos.
Relax in the natural Caldera hot springs.

to Bocas del Toro

Need to knows

All public transport can be found around the main centre square.

Special Recommendations

Food: Tacos Rudos Bqt

Attractions: Il Pianista

Accommodation: Blasina Beer Hostel

R’s take

The high altitude gave me a real spooky vibe with the low-lying clouds and the cooler weather. However, the people were all kind and friendly. There was definitely much to do and explore here, but I wasn’t a fan of the cold, reminded me too much of England. So unfortunately Boquete wasn’t my favourite spot.