Lake Atitlan

Villages, each of different characters, line the shores of the deepest lake in Central America, Lake Atitlan.

We arrived into Panajachel in the afternoon downpour. Because of the weather, we ran straight to the docks and took the first boat that was offered to us. We therefore paid, what we realised to be, an extortionate amount to get a boat to Santa Cruz La Laguna (we paid 60Q per person for a private boat, the ride usually costs 25Q for a public lancha). The ride to Santa Cruz felt like I was in Jurassic Park, sailing through choppy waves with large luscious green mountains arising through the mist. It took maybe 10 minutes. There is a public dock in Santa Cruz, but our hostel, Free Cerveza, had a private dock which we were able to get dropped off at.

Santa Cruz La Laguna

I was only in Santa Cruz for a short time, which was a shame because Lake Atitlan is so beautiful and serene, I would have loved to stay longer. Because I only had two days here, I didn’t venture much further than Santa Cruz, but you can use any of the villages as a home space and then make trips out to other villages along the shores.

There is a well routed lakeside path both east and west from Santa Cruz. However, the westward path goes much further, and it’s possible to walk all the way to neighbouring villages Jaibalito and Tzununa, and either walk back or take a boat. Online warns of muggings along this path if hiking alone, and whilst we didn’t experience this, just be aware. We didn’t make it all the way to Jaibalito because the weather started to turn by this point, but the incline produces beautiful views of the surrounding area. Our hostel offers sunrise hikes along this same path if it’s something you wanted to do but are alone.

We also made a trip into the main village, which involves walking up a very steep tarmac road. Alternatively, you can take a tuk-tuk. There is not a lot to do up in the town as a tourist, as it is mostly made up of homes and local shops. We were there on a Saturday morning and the local market was being held. We were able to buy some fresh produce, and they also sell some street food and fabrics. (I will mention that because of the stray dogs there was A LOT of dog poo all over the roads, I felt like I was constantly having to watch my step.)

As a tourist, it seems most of the activities to do involve those that are provided by your hostel, or by visiting other hostels / accommodation and joining activities there. At our hostel, Free Cerveza, you can borrow paddleboards and kayaks for free, which we used to explore the nearby area. Having their own private pier also made such a difference, as it provided a place on the waterfront to relax and swim. Not all accommodations have this to offer, and since there are no ‘public beaches’ along the shore, it makes it a lot harder to access the water if you are not staying in a waterfront accommodation. In general, it’s pretty normal to visit other hostels/accommodation and sign-up to an activity there, or join ‘family meals’ or order food at their on-site restaurants etc. We visited La Iguana Perdida a couple times, which was beautiful and provided better food options than Free Cerveza in my opinion. We signed up to join their family dinner one night, which was a BBQ, and the food was amazing. Same price as the family dinner on offer at Free Cerveza, just without the unlimited beer. We later stayed for their evening entertainment, which was movie night.

Free Cerveza Hostel

We chose Free Cerveza Hostel because of the free activities they had on offer, which I think it really important given how small and quiet the village is. There is not a whole lot of activities to do or local areas to visit in Santa Cruz itself, so having entertainment options included in our accommodation was good. Free Cerveza Hostel offer morning and evening activities, most of which are free. This could be things like yoga, sunrise/sunset hikes, salsa classes, beer pong, sunrise SUP, board games etc. In addition to this, they have kayaks and paddleboards that can be borrowed for free during the day. They then also offer tours and activities that can be booked through them at an additional price. Things like cooking classes, day trips to neighbouring towns or day-long hikes. You can see what they have planned coming up on the calendar on their website.

The accommodation itself was very nice and well looked after. Whilst on paper it my appear like a campsite, it actually feels a lot more developed than that. The bell tents are spacious, although I was sharing a private tent with my sister, I can imagine that in a shared tent it would feel less spacious as there aren’t storage spaces for bags. The beds were comfortable and warm. Each tent has power outlets, a light switch, ‘bedside ‘tables’, and a padlock to lock your tent. There are lockers located in a communal area to use. The only issue here was that being a tent and then mostly outside, there wasn’t really any space to hang up items to dry, including your towel. What would be good would be to include some hooks or a coat stand inside the tent to hang these things.

Other than tents, it is possible to stay in casitas, which are basically little cabins, if the idea of a tent is off-putting. I will say that other than having 4 solid walls, there isn’t any difference in the provision between the tent and the cabin. Then there is also the ‘lakehouse’ which is a private cabin that sits above the water, with 2 walls made of glass. It looks very cute.

Free Cerveza Hostel is styled as being open and amongst nature. All the communal areas are basically terraces, almost wall free. This means it can be a little chilly in the evenings, but makes for beautiful views all day long. There is a yoga deck, with one floor for sunbeds, and the lower deck with hammocks. Then in the main communal area is the ‘restaurant’ and bar and lots of long tables, benches, and cushions to hang around in. There are board games, ping-pong, corn hole, books etc. Here is where you sign up for free activities, and they often get full, and also where the reception desk is if you have any questions or need to purchase something. They run via a tab system, so all purchases get added to the tab and paid off at the end. This is potentially dangerous as it’s hard to keep track of your spending. Especially since they don’t accept card here, so you need to make sure you have enough cash by the end of your stay!

I loved that it was environmentally friendly, using compost toilets and natural resources. The compost toilets were actually very clean, much nicer than some other hostels bathrooms in general, and didn’t smell too bad. I also love outdoor showers, again I think they always feel cleaner being open air. All the facilities were well looked after. And staff were helpful and good at giving information or suggestions.

Free Cerveza accommodation, Santa Cruz La Laguna

Bamboo casitas are private cabins.

Free Cerveza Hostel, Santa Cruz La Laguna

Bell tent 'glamps'. They can be private or shared.

Compost toilets and outdoor shower block

Lake Atitlan - Atitlan Villages

Panajachel: The most developed large town on the shores of Lake Atitlan. For most travellers, this is not their final destination, but instead a town to pass through. Panajachel is where you will find most of the stores and services you need (ATMs, banks, travel agents, supermarkets), whereas other lakeside villages may not have them. You could use Panajachel as a base to explore some nearby towns and villages south or west along the shores if you’re not so bothered about staying somewhere quieter and less built up. At least in Panajachel you have plenty more accommodation options and better nightlife. I think a couple nights here could be fun.

San Antonio Palopo: A small town that is not so touristy, it is well known for its pottery and weaving and often visited as a day trip.

Santa Catarina Palopo: Close by to Panajachel, and therefore a popular day trip destination, Santa Catarina is a small but colourful town where buildings have been painted bright colours and patterns to mimic traditional weaving patterns. Come here for some Instagram friendly pics.

Santa Cruz La Laguna: A quiet and relaxing spot along the water, and a major base for scuba-diving if that’s what you’re into. The water here is clear and clean, so if you’re looking for a chilled out village with access to the water, this is the stop for you. The main village is located at the top of the hill and this is where you’ll find amenities like an ATM or shops. At the waterfront it is just accommodation with in-house services and a handful of stalls and restaurants that may or may not be open.

Jaibalito: A very small and quiet town that is only accessible by boat (or hike). It can be quite an appealing draw for those wanting to ‘escape it all’.

San Marcos La Laguna: A beautiful and tranquil stop known for its yoga and hippy communities. Think alternative medicines, slower pace of living, and quiet pedestrian streets. It is also known for its hikes and cliff jumping areas.

Tzununa: A quiet town next to San Marcos, it features a similar yoga hippy vibe but to a lesser extent. The town has more open spaces, which is used for natural and agricultural areas, and as such you can find people interested in nature and permaculture staying around here.

San Pablo: Another small town that is often missed off by tourists. Stay here for a quieter stay and a local’s experience. Not far from San Marcos or San Pedro, this could be a nice, chilled decompressor between the two destinations.

San Pedro La Laguna: Probably the most popular destination for backpackers, this town is known for being quite a party. It is right on the waterfront, but the water is too polluted for any swimming. It is also a great base for hiking the nearby Volcan San Pedro and other trails.

San Juan La Laguna: Located right next to San Pedro, you can make a trip to the two quite easily. San Juan is a little calmer and little less well known than San Pedro, so an escape here from San Pedro could be a nice change of pace. Still a fairly large town, there is plenty to do in experiencing local culture.

Santiago Atitlan: The largest town on Lake Atitlan, it not as built up or as busy as Panajachel and has fewer tourists. This is a good destination if you want to experience a more traditional town.

San Lucas Toliman: Despite its size, this town is not as highly developed for tourism as other neighbouring towns. Indeed, it is not frequented by tourists often at all. This has its benefits as it allows you to get a local’s experience.

Things to do in Lake Atitlan

Nearby volcano hikes: Volcan San Pedro, Volcan Toliman, Volcan Atitilan.
There are plenty of shorefront or mountain top hikes to choose from all around Lake Atitlan. Here are a couple: Rostro Maya, The Mayan Trail between Santa Cruz and San Marcos, and Patzilin Abaj trail around Cerro de Oro.
Learn to scuba dive with ATi DiVERS. Or if you already have your qualification, check out these awesome dive sites: Casa Del Mundo or Rambo II chimney.
Take some time to paddleboard or kayak and explore harder to reach shores.
Many towns and villages cater towards health and wellness tourism. Of course, San Marcos is an obvious destination, but there are many hotel/resorts all around the lake that offer such service. Think sauna & spa, Reiki, temazecal yoga, massage etc. I’ve tried to provide a couple suggestions of local Guatemalan run companies but am really struggling, for now: Elena’s hiking (temazecal & homestay).
Immerse yourself the in Mayan culture of the towns and villages. Support local businesses by buying their handicrafts, attending workshops or classes in weaving and cooking, or by staying in homestays.

Chichi Market (Chichicastenango)

Chichicastenango is a popular day trip from Lake Atitlan or Antigua, known for its market and Mayan culture. It is one of the largest markets in the whole of Guatemala, and a popular spot for local Maya people all over the country to come buy and sell goods. Market days are Thursday and Sunday and are bustling with tourists and locals alike.

I planned our itinerary so that we could visit Chichi market on the way from Lake Atitlan to Antigua. Whilst possible to visit Chichicastenango via public transport from Panajachel, it involves multiple changes, so we opted to take a shuttle service. The shuttle took us from Panajachel to Chichicastenango, and then after 3 hours took us from Chichicastenango to Antigua. Most shuttles only advertise return trips from the same starting point (return to Antigua or return to Panajachel) so you may have to specifically ask companies to have a different drop-off location. Most companies will be able to offer this for you as they will likely have shuttles running from both locations on the same day. This is the company we used, Xocomil Tours.

Chichicastenango is about 1.5 hours from Panajachel, and 2 hours from Antigua. You don’t make any stops along the way, and the drive is quite scenic as you pass through various Maya towns and villages. Once we were dropped off in Chichi, we had around 3–4 hours to ourselves before the shuttle would start its return. Chichi is pretty small, so whilst 3 hours doesn’t seem like long, there isn’t loads to keep you occupied during that time.

The main attraction is the market. The market has an indoor section, which you can enjoy getting lost amongst the food and fabrics, and then an outdoor section in the central plaza. The quality of the items here are amazing, they are all so beautiful and to know that the majority of items have been handmade is inspiring. Goods range from fabrics, to wooden masks, to jewellery, to fresh produce. Spend an hour or so walking around and admiring the handicrafts. Within the market there are some food stalls, mostly snacks around the plaza, and sit down meals inside the market. I highly recommend coming inside the market, taking a seat, and letting a local make you up a large dish of food. This will typically include tortillas, fried chicken, rice, beans, and salad. Different stalls will offer different food, some have menus to choose from, but if you’re unsure what’s on offer, this is the likely dish they will make up for tourists. Enjoy the vibe - women standing around big hot plates, massaging out tortillas, chatting to one another. On either end of the plaza are two white churches, Capilla del Calvario and Iglesia de Santo Tomás. On celebration days, these churches are colourfully decorated, and you may see locals make offerings by burning things on the steps of the church. On market days, the steps of Iglesia de Santo Tomás are occupied by flower sellers, and it was this image of Chichi that drew me to come visit.

Exploring further from the plaza, Chichi is much like any other town. There are some malls, some restaurants, juice bars, fro-yo etc. You can explore the town itself a little more, visit some local museums and observe the architecture of Arco Gucumatz. Museo De Máscaras Ceremoniales and Moreria Santo Tomas Fabrica De Mascaras are museums on the traditional masks used in Mayan dance and ceremonies. Here you can learn about how masks or made and the customs surrounding their use. There is also a small archaeological museum right by the main plaza, Museo Arqueológico Regional de Chichicastenango, and a small art gallery, Galeria Maya Pop Wuj, that sometimes hold art classes and workshops.

The local cemetery, Cementerio De Chichicastenango, is another area of Chichi you could walk around. Located, just a little outside the main plaza, the large park contains hundreds, if not thousands, of colourful graves and tombs adorned with flowers. Again, you may catch some locals around small fires making offerings to the dead. The cemetery is located on a hill, so also gives some good views of Chichi and the surrounding area.

to Antigua

Flower sellers on the steps of Igelsia de Santo Tomas

Flowers sold on the steps of Iglesia de Santo Tomas

Need to knows

See R’s take.

Special Recommendations

Food: La Iguana Perdida

Attractions: Lake side walks

Accommodation: Free Cerveza

R’s take

In general, it is quite safe. However, being such a tourist hotspot, and still relatively quiet and remote, there is an increased risk of being scammed or stolen from. Whilst I had no bad experiences myself, I have heard of people being on hikes and getting mugged, or being scammed into paying higher prices. Whilst none of these crimes were violent, it’s still not a nice feeling. So be aware, have your wits about you, and try to minimise walking around quiet and unfamiliar places on your own.

Free Cerveza entrance and communal terrace

Main dock of Santa Cruz La Laguna., timetable of boats can be found here. Tuk-tuks can take you around locally.

Family dinner served at Free Cerveza Hostel

Bell tents at Free Cerveza Hostel (private and shared)

Bamboo Casitas (private rooms) at Free Cerveza Hostel

The Lakehouse (private room) at Free Cerveza

Kayak and paddleboard hut at Free Cerveza Hostel. You can borrow these for free.

Iglesia de Santo Tomás, Chichicastenango

Lake Atitlan is a crater lake, created by the Chocoyos Eruption tens of thousands of years ago, which caused part of the volcano to collapse and eventually filling with water. This created the deepest lake in Central America, about 320m deep. It is renowned for its beauty, its striking landscape, and its cultural diversity of indigenous Maya people.

How was Lake Atitlan created? What is Lake Atitlan famous for?

How to get to Lake Atitlan and how to travel around Lake Atitlan

Depending on the village or town you are aiming for will determine how you make your way to Lake Atitlan. Panajachel is the largest town on the north-east shores of the lake, Santiago Atitlan is the largest towns in the south, and San Pedro La Laguna is the largest on the west. All these towns can be reached by road and will have public transport routes leading here. From these main towns, you can take local transport to the smaller villages and towns. Some will be accessible by road which can be reached by tuk-tuk or car if the road allows, otherwise taxi boats, known as lanchas, are very common.

If you are heading to a town/village on Lake Atitlan from outside Atitlan here are the main towns you should aim for which you can reach by chicken bus or shuttle:

Arrive to Panajachel if you are heading to: Santa Catarina or Santa Antonio (reach by road from Panajachel), Santa Cruz, Jaibalito or Tzununa (reach by lancha/taxi boat from Panajachel docks).
Arrive to San Pedro if you are heading to: San Juan or San Pablo (reach by road), San Marcos (reach by boat).
Arrive to Santiago Atitlan if you are heading to: Cerro Oro (reach by road) or San Lucas (reach by road or boat).

If the village you are aiming for can be reached by road, then a shuttle should be able to take you there directly. For villages that require a boat trip, a shuttle will take you to the docks of the nearest town (as I have suggested above) and you can take a lancha from there. To travel around to different villages it is possible to travel by boat across the entire Lake if needed, otherwise it would involve heading to a larger town and taking road transport to the next destination.

Where to stay in and around Lake Atitlan

Every village along Lake Atitlan has a different feel and different attractions. So depending on what you are looking for will depend on which village would suit your stay. See my section above on Atitlan Villages to give you an idea of each village’s characteristics. In general, San Pedro is more of a party town, San Marcos is a yoga town, Panajachel is a more developed town, Santa Cruz is for water activities, and Santiago is a more traditional town.

Can you swim in Lake Atitlan?

Whilst you can swim in Lake Atitlan, not all areas of the lake are safe for swimming. This really relies on how much pollution and run-off there is from the village into the waters surrounding it. For example, around San Pedro, the water is quite polluted and so not good for swimming. Around Santa Cruz, the water is much less polluted and so swimming here is possible. You also need to make sure that you keep yourself safe in regard to motorboats. Even if the water may seem accessible, be aware of motorboats that speed through to make pick-ups and drop-offs. They may not be able to see you clearly in the water, so it’s always a good idea to stay away from busy docks and to keep an eye on the horizon.

What fish / animals live in Lake Atitlan?

Whilst swimming in the waters, I am always curious as to what else could be swimming underneath me. There is nothing deadly swimming in the waters of Lake Atitlan, so you are safe in that respect, just fish, crabs, and plants. A lot of people go scuba diving in Lake Atitlan, mostly to see underwater volcanic rock formations, and sunken docks and gardens. There is a sunken Mayan City within the lake, but you need special approval to visit this archaeological site. Basically, scuba trips are not really to see wildlife, so I don’t think there are a lot of crazy things in there.

How many days should I stay in Lake Atitlan?

If you are short on time, a couple days visiting one or two nearby villages is possible. The main attraction in Lake Atitlan is the environment and scenery, and you’ll be able to enjoy that over 2 days. However, if you want to travel around to the different villages and experience the different vibes, or indeed wanted to spend some slowing down and enjoying nature, you can definitely spend a couple weeks in Atitlan and keep yourself occupied. There are various volcanos and hikes to explore, different cultures to experience in the different villages, and lake activities and water sports to take part in.