Albania
A mountainous backdrop along the Mediterranean coast, where eating and drinking out are a big part of the culture. Albania is fast becoming a popular holiday destination.
After numerous recommendations from my fellow solo-travelling friends, I booked my trip to Albania with my partner. I had originally planned to go at the end of summer last year, when the sea was at its warmest and the mountain tops were clear of snow. Unfortunately, a stolen passport put an abrupt end to that journey before it even began. So take two - this time I booked to visit Albania at the very cusp of tourist season, the first week of May. I had hoped by this time that the snow along the Theth to Valbonë mountain pass would have melted, allowing us to hike this popular trail. It had not, but so is life. It was too early into summer, and would probably be accessible by the end of May.
Albania travel itinerary
Tirana → Shkoder → Theth → Lake Ohrid (Pogradec) → Berat → Himarë
Tirana: We flew into Tirana International Airport and took the LU-NA shuttle into central Tirana. This costs 400 lek and leaves every hour on the hour. We stayed in Tirana for 2 nights. I loved Tirana and definitely would have liked to stay longer. It's a bustling city with many places to eat, drink and hang out, and that's on top of the rich tourist attractions to learn more about the culture.
Shkoder: Took a white double-length bus from Rruga e Dibres in Tirana, bus destination 'Terminal', to the Albania Bus Terminal. The bus costs 40 lek and announces its stops in Albanian and English, so you know where to get off. From the bus terminal, you can catch a coach to your next destination. A coach to Shkoder costs 400 lek and takes around 2–3 hours depending on traffic. There were no rest stops and no facilities on the coach.
Theth: To get to Theth via public shuttle (15 euros) you will need to book transport with your accommodation. Alternatively, there are transport/travel offices in the main town on Rruga G'juhadol where you can book from. These shuttles leave from Shkoder once a day at 7am. It is also possible to book a private taxi (70 euros) which can leave at a time convenient to you. The journey is 3–4 hours and a significant part of it will be through windy mountain roads. On the way into Theth you will make a couple of stops within the National Park area for photo opportunities and refreshments.
Lake Ohrid: Took a return shuttle from Theth back to Shkoder, booked through our accommodation again, and from Shkoder took the coach back to Tirana. From Tirana, we booked a rental car for the rest of our stay. However, it is possible to take a bus from the Tirana Bus Terminal to Lake Ohrid and our following destinations below. The journey to Pogradec, a town on Lake Ohrid, took 3–4 hours and is along well maintained, easy to drive roads. The roads are windy as you move through the mountains.
Berat: The road from Lake Ohrid to Berat is again well maintained and easy to drive. This drive took 4.5 hours along winding roads, navigating the mountains. It is possible to take a bus from Tirana to Berat from the main bus terminal.
Himarë: The road from Berat to Himarë is generally well maintained. However, some navigation routes may take you along smaller roads under the pretence of being quicker. Bear in mind that these navigations may not take into account the inclines/windiness/terrains of these roads and so may present unrealistic time estimates. I would recommend sticking to larger main roads to avoid coming up against off-road terrain that may be detrimental to your rental car deposit or cause you to have to turn back on yourself. These roads were particularly windy.
How to travel around Albania
Public transport via inter-city buses is well established in Albania, and it's pretty straight forward to get across the country by bus/coach. Each city/town will have a bus station - they are mostly a cluster of bus stops rather than a station building. At the stations will be a timetable of departure times, but check with the bus drivers themselves because they don't always leave at the indicated frequencies. Online information is limited, and you mostly have to rely on the reviews of fellow travellers. I would recommend using Google Maps to find up-to-date information.
Within Tirana, and other cities, the main way to get around is by bus or taxi. Again, buses are fairly straight-forward, get on the bus and a conductor will come round and collect the fare from you. However, there is very little information on bus routes and stops, both online and at the stops themselves. You will have to do some online digging to know which bus route to take, alternatively ask around. Taxis aren't too expensive when you consider the exchange rate on UK currency, but are of course a lot more than taking a bus. Taxi drivers are willing to travel long distances if needed.
During our 10 days in Albania, we came across a lot of construction, roadworks, and home/business improvements. I think this was both down to the time of year we visited, in preparation for the main tourist season, and a conscious shift in Government planning to invest in the tourism industry. Whilst this meant that not all the infrastructure was fully functional or aesthetically pleasing (think building sites and heavy machinery next to beach bars), my main issue was with the signs directing to businesses that were not yet open, or roads that were not yet built. In the case of the roads there were always routes to continue along, but it would often involve off-roading alongside the road works or driving along the partially constructed road.
What to eat in Albania
Lake fish (typically served fresh and fried from Lake Ohrid)
Byrek (filo pastry with spinach and soft cheese)
Meat grill / zgara
Fërgesë (Dip made from tomatoes, peppers and cottage cheese)
Tavë Kosi (lamb, egg, and yoghurt casserole)
Kackavall (salty cheese)
Baklava
Qofte (lamb meatballs, get it served with yoghurt)
Fresh fish (from the coast)
Petulla (fried dough)
Speca me gjize (stuffed peppers)
Raki (40 proof alcoholic drink)
Mountain tea
And everything else
Money: The currency in Albania is Lek. Most places will also accept Euros, but will charge you at a higher rate. For example, if something costs 400 lek, they will charge you 4 euros, but the actual conversion is 3.5 euros. It's not a huge markup, but if you are able to pay in local currency, it's better. Lek is a closed currency, so can only be purchased in Albania. Card is not readily accepted in most places, so you will need to withdraw and carry cash with you - this includes paying for your accommodation, which is often paid for at the property and not online while booking. TOP TIP: Credins bank ATMs do not charge a withdrawal fee for UK cards.
Language: The official language of Albania is Albanian. English is not readily spoken here, although a lot of the younger generation can speak it fluently. Older generations will not necessarily speak English, and many of them will own and run the hotels and restaurants that you visit. I'd therefore recommend having Google Translate downloaded and learning some basic vocabulary.
Safety: Albania felt very safe. Despite some negative biases fuelled by anti-immigration and racist rhetoric in the UK against Eastern Europeans, I found Albanians to be very friendly and respectful. I never had any concerns of male abuse or violence. Men would greet me on the street in a genuine manner, rather than approaching me with unwanted attention. It is part of the culture to eat and drink out and to socialise, so the streets weren't often dark and quiet but instead bustling at night. Going about as a single woman may not elicit the same amount of respect as it would if you were in the company of a man (such as being served first, or having your queries listened to) but this did not translate towards abuse of women. Of course this isn't ideal, and is a more traditional perspective which isn't taken by all. I didn't experience any feelings or concerns related to racism and instead felt that the microaggressions I experienced, such as being ignored, were more to do with me being a woman than the colour of my skin. It should be noted that I am brown skinned / light-skinned and don't stand out as much compared to the olive complexion of some Albanians.
Need to knows
Albania is a cash economy, so be prepared to pay for everything with cash (including accommodation). Withdraw cash from Credins ATMs to avoid withdrawal fees.
Special Recommendations
Food: Fresh fish (fried)
Attractions: Berat
Accommodation: Hotel Tradita, Shkoder
R’s take
A friendly and respectful country. Large male presence, but felt safe nonetheless. Embrace the guest house/homestay culture to get a real, authentic experience.