Lake Ohrid
Straddling Albania and North Macedonia is one of Europe’s deepest and oldest lakes.
Lake Ohrid was a last minute addition to the itinerary. Having not been able to hike to Valbona in the Albanian Alps, we used our extra day to travel over to Lake Ohrid. We stayed in Pogradec, the largest town on Lake Ohrid on the Albanian side, and close to the North Macedonia border.
Lake Ohrid
We drove to Lake Ohrid from Tirana. Unfortunately, just as we were getting to Pogradec, there was an accident on the road (the only road to Pogradec). Traffic was at a stand still, and rather than wait for the road to clear, we decided to grab an early dinner in the village of Lin. There was not a lot of open when we got there, and from the looks of it they weren't expecting any tourists to be coming in. However, we found one restaurant on the water front and ordered some fresh lake fish to eat. The fish was delicious, and the view was very serene. Lake Ohrid is so still. You can see across the lake to the other towns on the North Macedonia side, but the lake and the sky and the hills all seem to merge together into varying hues of blue. By the time we had finished, the roads had cleared, and we reached our hotel by nightfall.
The following morning we had breakfast at our hotel, again on the waterfront, which gave a nice tranquil start to the day. We walked along the lake front for a bit, but didn't explore much of the town.
St. Naum
Our primary attraction to coming to Lake Ohrid was to cross the border into North Macedonia and visit St Naum. The Monastery of St Naum is an Eastern Orthodox monastery named after Naum, a writer and enlightener. To get to St Naum we drove to the border, parked our car in Albania and walked across the border (we didn't pay extra / have the documents required to cross the border by car). The road was being resurfaced, so we had to walk a bit further on the Albania side than expected. At the borders, we walked up to the window (in the same lane as the cars would pass) and showed our passports. We weren't asked any questions and were able to cross quite smoothly. There is about a 10 min walk between the border control offices, and there is no pavement, so be careful.
Once in North Macedonia, it's another 15 min walk to the monastery grounds - first along the road, and then through a forest path. The architecture of the monastery, as well as the surrounding gardens, are beautiful. The monastery is situated on the shores of the lake, which means you can dip your toes (no bikinis/swimwear on monastery grounds), and also a pier if you wanted to take a boat to other attractions or towns on the lake. Within the monastery grounds are various market stalls where people sell souvenirs and local crafts. There are a couple of restaurants and cafes too.
The monastery was built close to three natural springs that feed into Lake Ohrid, two of which you are able to view by foot. One spring is around the back of the monastery building which you will pass if you come to the monastery by footpath, and another is enclosed within a church close by. There is a forest trail that will lead you to each of these. Short boat tours are also available to further explore the springs and the waterways they have created.
Behind the main walls are the monastery buildings, which are seemly patrolled by peacocks. Not all rooms and buildings are open to tourists, but the central building has been preserved for you to visit, pray and pay your respects. There is also a small gift shop and a restored room to demonstrate the beauty of the illustrations and artistry of the rooms back in their prime.
Monastery of St Naum
Monastery of St NaumNeed to knows
Border crossing is pretty straightforward, but always check you have the right documents on you and you are not carrying anything that you shouldn’t either.
Special Recommendations
Food: Fried lake fish
Attractions: Monastery of St Naum
Accommodation: N/A
R’s take
My experience of Lake Ohrid was of stillness and quiet. There was not much interaction with other people, and of those they were friendly. It was cooler and calmer here. I think in the summer it will have an entirely different vibe, with much of the lakefront being converted into beaches
How to get to Lake Ohrid from Tirana, Albania
You can take a bus/coach from Tirana to Ohrid via Struga, crossing the northern border between Albania and North Macedonia. The journey takes about 2.5 hours (factor in border crossing time which is usually not a long wait, but you never know). There aren’t many options to buy a bus ticket online, unless bought through a third party website such as getbybus or Flixbus. The bus companies that operate this route are: Senad Tours, EuroBus, and Galeb Ohrid. It costs around £15 one way.
How to get to Lake Ohrid from Skopje, North Macedonia
You can take a bus/coach from Skopje to Ohrid. The journey takes about 3 hours. There aren’t many options to buy a bus ticket online, unless bought through a third party website such as getbybus. The bus companies that operate this route are: Classic Company Ohrid, Makedonija Soobrakaj, and Galeb Ohrid. It costs around £12.50 one way.
How to cross the border to/from Albania at Lake Ohrid
There are 2 border crossings around Lake Ohrid. One to the North at Struga (this is the more popular border crossing), and one at the South at St Naum. You will need your passport to cross and will have to declare any large amounts of money or weapons. In general, if you are crossing by foot, or as a passenger such as in a bus, this is a fairly quick and straightforward process. From what I’ve heard and read about, crossing in a car can be a lengthy and frustrating process. If you’re only crossing for the day, I’d recommend parking your hire car at the border and crossing by foot. There will be taxis located either side of the border to pick people up and take them where they want to go. Similarly, it will be easier to return your hire care in Albania, and rent a new car in North Macedonia to avoid possible border crossing delays and paperwork. However, if you do choose to drive your hire car across the border, check with the rental agency that you have the relevant documents and insurance coverage. You will not be able to cross the border without the right documents.
Can you swim in Lake Ohrid?
Yes, you are permitted to swim in Lake Ohrid. Some people even swim across the whole lake itself. In general, being a lake, the waters near the shore are shallow and calm and so good conditions for paddling/swimming. The pebbly shores make the water super clear.
Are there beaches on Lake Ohrid?
The shores of Lake Ohrid are mostly made up of small stones, some with sand. There are plenty of beaches along the shores, and the water is easily accessible. Some popular beaches are listed below.
City beaches:
Labino Beach - a hidden beach cove in the Old Town area of Ohrid
Potpesh Beach - a favourite for tourists based in Ohrid
Kaneo Beach - another hidden cove in Old Town Ohrid which sits underneath the Church of St John the Theologian
Male Beach - an expansive beach in Struga
Between Ohrid and St Naum stretches the ‘Orhid Riviera’ where you will find plenty of beaches with restaurants, bars, and resort areas:
Cuba Libre Beach - a fun beach whose neighbouring beach bar often hosts events, check out their social media for up-to-date information
Gradishte Beaches - popular with families, situated near the Bay of Bones
St Stefan Beaches - very nice, clean, and neat beaches
On the Albanian side of Lake Ohrid, beach areas are not as well established with restaurants and amenities. However, there is still plenty of shoreline to lounge on, many of which have neighbouring campsites.
Southern shores between Pogradec and Drilon
Erlin Beach
Sugar Shore Beach Bar
Red Stone Camping Beach Bar
What fish are in Lake Ohrid?
There are 2 species of trout that are endemic to Lake Ohrid and you can try them at local restaurants.
How deep is Lake Ohrid?
Lake Ohrid is one of the deepest lakes in Europe. It has an average depth of 155m.
When is the best time to visit Lake Ohrid?
You can visit Lake Ohrid year round and enjoy the tranquil surroundings and natural beauty. Naturally, if you want to enjoy the water, visiting in the warmer months of July and August are best. To try and avoid the busiest times, but still get good weather try May, June and September. Tourist season runs around May-September. Outside of this you may struggle to book onto some tours or activities. For example, during the start of April I wasn’t able to book a boat excursion around Lake Ohrid unless booking for a private tour. So something to bare in mind.