Monteverde
Walk high amongst the clouds of Monteverde’s cloud forests before returning to the sunny valley town of Santa Elena.
I’ve visited Monteverde twice, almost 10 years apart, and a lot has been developed in that time. The area has become better tailored to tourism, providing well-established and sustainable tours and services, as well as numerous gastronomical experiences. Coming to the mountainous forests is a lovely breath of cool, fresh air that contrasts the hot thick, air of the Costa Rican coast. There is lots to do around Monteverde and can range from high-action, adrenaline-fuelled activities, to slow-paced, nature-connecting relaxation. If your itinerary allows, spend at least 4 days here to get the most out of those two experiences.
Santa Elena
The nearest town to Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve and the surrounding nature area is Santa Elena. Buses run from San Jose and Puntarenas to Santa Elena via Transmonteverde. Buses run twice a day, and I’d suggest buying your ticket before your departure date to ensure a seat.
Santa Elena is pretty cute. There are shops, cafés, restaurants, and a central tourist centre that provides information, transport and tickets - well catered to tourists. We visited during Christmas and there was a real community feel. We were even lucky enough to watch their Christmas parade along the streets. It is easy to navigate Santa Elena without your own transport. Their tourism office, Monteverde Chamber of Tourism / Cámara de turismo Monteverde, provides you with all the help and information you’d need. Right out front of it are the bus/transport stops to different destinations which they can call for you. I would highly recommend using their website to plan your trip both before and during. They are very helpful, speak English and Spanish, and have a phone number and WhatsApp. Wherever you are, (stuck at some nature reserve without transport) they’ll be able to help you.
We were lucky that every day in Monteverde was sunny, we did have a brief downpour whilst coming back from a hike, but other than that it was lovely. Monteverde was quite chilly, being at a higher altitude, with quite a wind on it, despite the sun. At night, it was particularly cold, so I’d suggest packing layers, even a coat would be a good idea here!
Things to do in Santa Elena
Special gardens and ecological reserves can be found in Santa Elena. To see the frogs of Costa Rica, head to Ranario de Monteverde. For more wildlife, Santuario Ecológico Monteverde and Monteverde Butterfly Garden. If you are more interested in flora, then the orchid garden, Jardín de Orquídeas Monteverde is for you.
Night walks are popular here, and you will see loads of companies offering wildlife tours of the local area for those animals and insects you miss during the day. Shop around for a deal that suits you. Just note that some tours cater to larger group sizes so this may or may not appeal to you.
There are a couple of hikes and nature attractions you can see in Santa Elena itself without having to travel further out of the town. Ficus La Raiz is a fascinating tree formation and an easy walk to view. A little further out is the waterfall, Catarata Los Murciélagos, and the nature reserves Reserva Curi Cancha and Bosque Eterno de los Niños Bajo del Tigre.
Lots of great restaurants in Santa Elena that are both tasty and entertaining. Tree House Restaurant is a popular destination, built around a tree, and often hosting live music. A personal favourite of mine is Cafe Monteverde where I would regularly buy empanadas for packed lunch on my way out to a hike. For fine dining, try San Lucas Treetop Experience.
I love trying craft beer in different countries, and the small town of Santa Elena has two breweries to try. Belmar Craft Brewery and Monteverde Brewing Company both serve banging drinks and banging food.
Come to Mirador El Maike at sunset for magical views of the Nicoya Peninsula (pictured).
Ficus La Raiz
Monteverde Nature Hikes
Cloud Forests: Monteverde is known for its cloud forests, which it does well to protect. The high altitude of these tropical forests produces a near-constant cloud cover, giving these forests a moody, misty feel. Because of its climate, cloud forests are rich in biodiversity. Expect to see monkeys, orchids, hummingbirds, frogs, air plants, sloths (if you can spot them), creepy crawlies and plenty more. Animals can be hard to spot in the dense forest, so my advice would be to stop and listen out for animals rustling, particularly in the trees above you as this is how you are most likely to spot monkeys making their way through the canopy. There are a couple of cloud forests within the vicinity, The Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Preserve, Curi-Cancha Reserve and The Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve. Entrance fees are required to enter these parks, the money of which goes towards its conservation and staff. As mentioned above, if you’re looking for transport to reach these places, the tourism office will be able to help you find free shuttle transport (where applicable) or organise a taxi.
Hanging bridges: A popular hike activity is to explore the forests via hanging bridge walkways. These are really great ways to experience both the forest floor and the canopy. Personally, I think walking along hanging bridges is better than taking a zip-line tour through the canopy as you can stop and explore a bit more and take pictures. If you are accompanied by a guide you will gain lots of information about the environment and the guides are best at pointing out wildlife to you - we got to see monkeys, moths, tarantulas and birds. The bridges do swing a little if very long, or if people are walking heavily - just something to consider. There are multiple companies and parks that offer hanging bridges/sky walks. I went with Sky Adventures which I really liked as our tour guide was super knowledgable and knew where all the local wildlife were hidden and was able to point them out to us. You can also go with 100% Aventura or Selvatura Park. Tours cost around $40 at base price and should take a couple of hours, half a day max.
Other hikes: There are plenty of other nature reserves and parks that you can explore/hike. Many will have entrance fees and may require prior reservation.
Children’s Eternal Rainforest. Bajo del Tigre is their main trail open to visitors. They also have another trail, Finca Steller, which requires advance reservation to hike, and two field stations where visitors can spend the night.
El Tigre Waterfalls is a stunning area with multiple waterfalls. You can book a tour to hike the area (guided or non-guided), and there are also options for zip-line biking ?! if you want to try something different.
Monteverde Wildlife Refuge / Refugio Monteverde is private land and therefore requires a tour reservation to visit. You can book directly with the company.
Valle Escondido is available for visitors to explore the reserve. They also offer courses, workshops, and volunteer opportunities on permaculture and farming. They have an on-site hotel, restaurant, and yoga studio.
Cerro Pinocho. A popular hike for sunrise/sunset and a fairly hilly climb from Santa Elena that can be completed in a couple of hours. Reviews mention that the landowner asks for a small fee, but I’m unsure whether this is for all visitors or just those wanting to camp overnight.
Santuario Ecologico is private land that is available for tourists to visit the trails. It also hosts coffee and cooking workshops as well as rooms.
Night tours, see above
There are also plenty of companies and local families offering various tours, from coffee, sugar & chocolate tours, to wildlife tours, and other activities. In these cases, you will need to book a place on their tours, many of which will include transport to and from the location.
Monteverde Extreme Sport
Canopy tours & zip-lining: Monteverde became one of the first places in the world to offer zip-line tours. As such, there are many companies offering a variety of options. From zip-line biking to ‘flying’ experiences. As I mentioned above, if you are looking to see the forest from up high I think hanging bridge tours are best as you have more time to take in your surroundings, take pictures, spot wildlife etc. If you are looking for an adrenaline rush, and less bothered about learning about the forest and seeing wildlife, then a zip-line tour is better. Some of the larger tour companies that offer zip-line and canopy tours include The Canopy Tour, Sky Adventure, 100% Aventura, Selvatura Park and Monteverde Extremo. I did the tour with Monteverde Extremo, as part of a package with a bungee jump (more below). The staff were great, really friendly, kept everyone safe and lots of fun, which is great for the scarier bits.
Bungee jump: The highest bungee jump (143m) in Costa Rica, and indeed the whole of Central America, is located here in Monteverde, delivered by the company Monteverde Extremo. You can read about my experience of bungee jumping and a review in my journal, but I will say it was an amazing and terrifying experience!
Need to knows
Monteverde can get COLD. Pack layers accordingly, remembering that cloud forests don’t get a lot of sunlight.
Special Recommendations
Food: Cafe Monteverde
Attractions: Hanging bridges walks
Accommodation: Moon Forest Apartments
R’s take
Santa Elena is a beautiful little tourist town. As such it felt pretty safe day and night. Off the main central road, streets can get quiet and dark at night which may feel spooky. In general locals tend to keep to themselves.